Naxos is supposed to be a half an hour layover between twee ships until one of them, the Skopelitis, decided differently. So all of a sudden we are in Naxos for 12 hours. What to do? “Come to my place and relax!” says Evangelina from Agriturismo Palatiana, a sweet and beautiful hide-away in a lush green valley just a stones throw from Naxos Port. Evangelina is an architect but decided she would not let her father’s heritage go in ruins, so now she is dedicated in running this intimate agriturismo consisting of a dozen of self catering studios scattered in a green and silent garden in the fertile valley of Gallini .
After a day of working and relaxing in the agriturismo Palatiana, Evangelina takes us into town to To Steki Tou Valetta, an old fashioned ouzeri with bright, white lights hanging on the ceiling and a handful of oldies watching tv and chatting while having raki or ouzo. Evangelina orders us a plate of heavenly marinated skate and a dish of perfectly grilled octapus. Before we hop on the Blue Star Ferry we discover another great ouzeri: “the Jetty”, along the quay where the ferries dock. Numerous bikes and scooters fight for a spot next to the entrance and inside Greeks are having a good time with lots of drinks and grilled delicacies. When the ferry appears in the distance as a big monster with giant and bright eyes, half of the bar disappears, only to be quickly replaces by more jolly Naxos habituÃ©s attracted by the smell of the grill and the contagious ambiance of The Jetty.