The numerous villages of Amorgos are a reason why to travel here. Old chora is charming, quiet (in low season), with narrow, white painted streets and stairs, now and then a small boutique or cafe. But our big number one is the village of Tholaria in the north. You can stay here at Plori Suites, and enjoy the quiet village life. There’s a couple of Kafeneio in this village, often a combi of a traditional cafe with small bazaar. Inside there’s old wooden floors and high ceilings with all sorts of stuff you can buy, from cigarettes to a kilo of sugar. Locals are sitting outside, drink coffee or later in the afternoon a beer or glass of raki. Often these kafeneio are managed or owned by older, Greek ladies who multi-task and know how to manage a business in a Greek male dominating world. After they serve you a cheap and cold beer, they dive back into their tiny kitchen to get a freshly backed spinach pie out of the oven and serve it as mezede, maybe just after they helped a customer buying his groceries for the day. In Berlin this would be hip and trendy, here it is old glory, soon fading away to make place for hip bars.
© 2014 Debbie Pappyn. All rights reserved.