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26 Jul ’14

A bit more accessible are the ordinary bistros and café-comptoirs. Joelle Garioud is the patron of La Mere Cottivet, a charming bistro in a side street of the pedestrian shopping street of Lyon. The décor of this eatery is so typically French that many Asians come to sit and stare for half an hour, bedazzled, watching and observing before they think of their food. Joelle collects paintings of Fannys, girls with naked butts. They usually bend over to pick up a petanque ball and the idea is that the loser of the game gives a kiss to Fanny’s butt. (the tradition began apparently after WWO I in the Savoie). Joelle like to roam antique markets to find more antiques (and more Fanny) and takes us to Les Puces du Canal, ten minutes outside the city. This is the second largest flea market (after Paris) in France, especially during the weekends you can wander around for half a day. There are stalls outside, real shops in the hangar, from expensive to cheap, there is a bar and even a restaurant and bakery.

Joelle also takes us, as a real Lyon guide to her favourite lunch spot: Le Lafayette. Yves, the chef and patron, is a loud persona who switches a lot between counter and kitchen. He pours glasses of wine to his loyal customers who come here almost every day for a plat du jour. From posh business people to garbage collector, everyone comes together here for the simple but correct food, the jovial patron and the generous glasses of wine. From the traditional bouchon to a simple bistro, you come to Lyon with a strong stomach and a lot of appetite because here you better eat you will be eaten.

2 Comments

  1. Now that makes all the difference – wonderful that Joelle took you to her favourite lunch spot: Le Lafayette sounds amazing.

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