I had it long on the wish list: Ipiutaq Guest Farm in a lonely fjord, roughly between Narsarsuaq and Narsaq. The French Agathe Devisen met her husband Kallista Poulsen when she was in Greenland visiting. She never left, looked for a job, had a daughter and figured out a way to live here. Her Greenland husband dreamed about having his own farm. In Greenland this usually means having sheep. Thus began the agricultural adventure of the French Greenlandic couple, who for a large part of the year, live very secluded and away from civilization and people. Agathe decided she could earn some money by using their farm as B&B with the bonus of Agathes kitchen, which is a mix between Greenlandic and French cuisine.
A nice concept, to stay here at the end of the world in a small wooden house, to eat with the family, to learn about the how and what and meanwhile enjoy the better cooking. It could be perfect if it were not for Agathe, who like an overstressed and very strict host, might not always like the idea of having guests over in her home. Despite the fact that Epiutaq is a gem of a place, even with a very nice and comfortable, wooden guest cottage with its own kitchen, unfortunately we feel very unwelcome. While hubby Kallista (a kind and charismatic type) works throughout the day in the field somewhere in the valley and dear daughter is doing remarkably well being very socially with the guests, the panicking hostess Agathe makes it all feel a bit Fawlty Towers with absurd situations. Maybe it’s so remote to live here or the lack of seeing lots of people? She cooks interesting things, sometimes with ingredients growing around the farm and the presentation is perfect but when we sit at the table, there’s no atmosphere. The guests dine separately from the family and we are kicked out around 8PM because the hostess then wants to eat herself. If you are very hungry you are also out of luck. The portions are tiny and a second plate is a no-go.
Who still wants to stay here, do it for the beautiful location and the comfortable accommodation but try to go for self catering and bring your own food and drinks (shopping can be done in Narsaq as in Narsarsuaq). Ipiutaq Guest Farm is now removed from the wish list. Been there, done that and probably will not go back. Although one morning, that view from the wooden window of our house onto the sunrise above the snowy tops of the mountains around the fjord,â€¦. Let me tell you it was amazing. Beauty can be found everywhere, especially in magical Greenland.